Via dei Coronari

A few steps from the house, this straight, quiet street follows an ancient Roman road. It is named after the “coronari”, the rosary sellers who served pilgrims heading to St Peter's. Today it is Rome's antiques street, lined with Renaissance palazzi and little squares.

Did you know: Look up at the street corners and you will spot small shrines with sacred images: they were once also the only night-time lighting in the streets.

✦ The legend: Palazzo de Cupis is the setting for the story of Costanza, who had — everyone said — the most beautiful hands in Rome, so much so that a sculptor made a cast of them. One day she cut a finger, the wound became infected, and she died of it. Since then, so the legend goes, on certain nights a very white hand appears at the walled-up window overlooking the street.